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Wednesday, 30 April , 2008 found at sify.com

India`s craze for buying gold jewellery is legendary. Even as affluence improves amongst jewellery buyers and as the price of gold touches new highs, there has been an increasing trend to go in for diamond jewellery. And here, the latest fashion of course is buying diamond solitaires.

Solitaires are not just a girl`s best friend. They can be a good investment option too; after all, prices of 2 to 3 carat solitaires have gone up by over 15 per cent last year. As high quality, good sized solitaires become more and more difficult to come by, investing in one is a must. How can it get any better? They can act as a store of value, leave your wife or girlfriend doe-eyed and leave everyone else breathless.

Solitaires look stunning when set in gold and platinum, however, shopping for one can give you the jitters. You either know it all and can rattle out the 'diamond` glossary at the eye-brow raised salesman or blindly pick up a design of your choice and just pray that you have got the correct solitaire. We would prefer you do the former.

diamond jewelleryWhen you buy a solitaire, you own a piece of history, a rare and unique creation of nature. So, when investing in something as charismatic as a diamond solitaire, the ‘ignorance is better than bliss philosophy` is not going to work. It will take some reading up, but we bet it will be worth it when you proudly adorn those diamond pear drops knowing that you have got your full money`s worthand better still, you were not conned by a jeweller.

What you need to ask the jeweler 

 

In the world of solitaires, perfection in every respect is rare and naturally it is coveted. While talking about diamonds the 4Cs or the 5Cs is a clichéd format to tell you what to look for. We will take that forward into 7Cs that cover everything that you`ll ever need to know to buy the perfect gem.

Contour Solitaires can come in different shapes, each more appealing and unique than the other. Round, pear, heart, cushion, emerald, princess, asscher, radiant, oval and marquise are some shapes you can choose from. A certified solitaire`s official record would also mention the shape so you can be doubly sure of your choice.Apart from its basic shapes, the other point about contour that you need to remember is the ratio of the solitaire`s dimensions. The most preferred solitaires are neither to shallow, nor too deep. Perfectly cut solitaires combine the most ideal proportions for the table, crown, girdle, pavilion and culet (a diamond`s parts) to ensure the best reflective quality.

Cut

The cut of the solitaire is of paramount importance as the brilliance of your diamond is almost fully dependent on it. The polishing and symmetry, which is involved in the cutting process also determines the radiance of your solitaire. In the certificate provided to you by the jeweller, look out for the grades of the cut and symmetry of your solitaire. They are usually graded as Excellent (EX), Ideal (ID), Very good (VG), Good (G), Fair (F) and Poor (P). Avoid buying diamonds with Fair or Poor grades as your gemstone will not have the shimmer you wish for.

Colour

The lesser the inherent colour of the diamond, more is the colourful flashes of rainbow light or fire it would reflect. So if you want your solitaire to sparkle with subtle hues then go for solitaires with D – G colours, as they are the best grades. I – J grades are also available in the market and you can easily identify them because of their yellowish tinge. If you want to sport a shimmering solitaire then the latter is best avoided.

Carat weight

The unit of weight to measure a diamond is carat (karat is the unit to measure gold). 100 points or cents make a carat. Higher the carat, bigger the solitaire and higher the cost because bigger diamonds are more rare compared to the smaller ones.

Clarity

The clearer your solitaire, the brighter it is and higher is the price. Clarity is determined by the scratches, marks, mineral/ coal deposits in the form of black spots etc., also called inclusions. They are graded by gemological laboratories in the categories FL (Flawless), IF (Internally Flawless), VVS1 and VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included), VS1 and VS2 (Very slightly included), S1 and S2 (Slightly included) and I1, I2 and I3 (Included). `FL` and `IF` grade solitaires are very rare, but `VVS1` and `VVS2` are of very good quality and widely found. It is best not to compromise on the clarity of your solitaire, so avoid the 'I` grade altogether.

CertificateReputed jewellers usually give their buyers a certificate along with their diamonds, certifying the quality, weight and grading of the diamond. Buying a certified diamond is the best way to choose one because going for an uncertified one means you are taking the salesman`s word for the Gospel truth. The most common certifications are from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), International Gemological Institute (IGI) and European Gemological Laboratory (EGL).Cost

The price of a diamond depends on its size, colour, clarity and cuts. The bigger the size of the diamond, the higher the caratage and hence higher the cost. A VVS1, D-G solitaire is the best bet if your budget is not a constraint. Otherwise, you can mix-n-match the combinations of clarity, cut and colour, to suit your needs.

What`s in“Round, pear and princess shapes with brilliant finish are the most sought after solitaire designs,” says Mehul Chowksy, MD, Gili India Ltd.

These are especially popular for rings and ear studs. Another line of exquisite diamond jewellery that has become a rage following Tanishq`s latest collection for the magnum opus Jodha Akbar is the polki or uncut diamond creations. Nupur Singhania Daga, Assistant Brand Manager, Tanishq explains, “Polki diamonds are not sold as lose stone, they always form part of a piece of jewellery, and loses its value when taken out. Polkis are popular when combined with kundankari designs with rubies, emeralds and enamel work.” However, polkis are not popular among those who look to diamonds as a form of investment as they lack the brilliance of a cut and polished solitaire. While diamond lovers in North and West India are lapping up these beautiful collections, people down South are still apprehensive about its value and clarity. “In fact, in northern parts of India, polki diamonds with kundan sets are bought as a family heirloom,” adds Nupur. Whichever form it may take, diamond solitaires will continue to be the numero uno in exquisite jewellery designs.

Diamond facts

The word diamond comes from the Greek work adamas meaning unconquerable.

The word carat is named after the carob tree, whose seeds were used to weigh precious stones. ‘Dosh` or ‘dosham`, which is a popular term Indians associate with diamonds, is nothing but inclusions in the form of scratches, cracks or black spots. Since diamonds are considered to have supernatural powers, the clarity of the stone is considered important for the possessor`s wellbeing.

Some of the world`s most renowned solitaire jewellery brands include Harry Winston, Tiffany, Cartier and Bulgari.

Sparkling tales

Ever wondered why diamonds are a rage for engagement rings? Well, it`s not just a new fad but there is history and folklore behind it too. Since legend has it that diamonds possess supernatural power, many communities around the world wore them to ward of evil spirits and cure insanity. The Italians were the first to use solitaires in an engagement ring as it was said to maintain good relationships between a husband and wife. In fact, Mary of Burgundy is the first known recipient of a diamond studded engagement ring in 1477.

The world`s best known solitaires

Golden Jubilee: At 545.67 carats, this solitaire is the largest faceted diamond in the world today. It is now displayed at the Royal Thai palace as part of the crown of jewels.

Cullinan 1 : Also known as the Great Star of Africa, this 530.2 carats diamond forms part of the British crown of jewels. Its estimated value is $400 million.

Centenary Diamond : With D grade colour, this 273.85 carats solitaire, is the best colour quality diamond the world has ever set eyes on. Though the current owner of this heart shaped, brilliant dazzle diamond is unknown, it`s estimated to value about $ 100 million.

Millennium Diamond : Pear-shaped, 203.04 carats, D-grade, this sparkle is the world`s second largest diamond that is internally flawless.

Jacob : Owned by the government of India and earlier by the Nizam`s, this heart shaped cushion cut beauty weighs 184.5 carats.

Kohinoor : Also known as the ‘Mountain of light` this solitaire is India`s pride. Mined in India`s Golconda region, this 105 carat solitaire was once the largest diamond in the world. Today, it forms part of the British Crown of Jewels.

Hope : Ironical to its name, this popular diamond is rumoured to have brought a curse to whoever owned it. This brilliant blue solitaire, weighing 45.52 carats, was mined in India and is now at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.



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