Antwerp Diamond city is a real gem
Are diamonds, chocolate and fashion your thing? Or maybe you'd just settle
for good food and plenty of history. You'll find them all on a short break in
Antwerp, writes NICK ELVIN.
found at hendontimes.co.uk
Friday 30th November 2007
DIAMONDS are a girl's best friend, but they've also been pretty good to
Antwerp over the years.
In the 15th century, when dealing in these most precious stones was done in
the city's inns, would anyone have believed just how important the industry
would be today? Diamonds have given the city wealth, which in turn has allowed
it to flourish in areas like the arts - to become a true city of culture.
Groenplaats
with cathedral onze lieve vrouw in Antwerp (© Joris Luyt)
Antwerp is home to nearly half a million people and is the economic hub of
the Flanders region in northern Belgium. It is Europe's second largest port and,
after Brussels, is the country's second biggest city.
For a long time, Antwerp was called "Hantwerpen", Dutch for
"hand throwing". Legend has it that a giant once controlled a stretch
of the River Scheldt, demanding a heavy toll from passing ships. He would cut
off the hand of any non-paying captain. It was a Roman soldier who ended this by
chopping off the giant's hand and throwing it into the river.
There's a rather curious statue of the Roman holding the dismembered hand, in
the main square (the Grote Markt), where you'll also find the magnificent town
hall (Stadhuis) and elegant 16th and 17th century guildhouses. From here it's
only a short stroll to the Gothic Cathedral
of Our Lady, which dominates the city skyline. It was completed in 1521
after 170 years of building, and the partly Baroque interior houses many works
of art, including four stunning paintings by Rubens, as well as magnificent
stained glass windows. It remains one of the most peaceful, atmospheric places
in the city, especially when the light outside is fading.
You can discover more about the life of Peter Paul Rubens at his home and
place of work, which he bought in 1610. Rubenshuis
contains 10 of his works, including Self-portrait, Adam and Eve in Paradise and
a portrait of the painter Van Dyck, another notable Antwerp resident, as a boy.
The house itself is stunning, and features an inner courtyard and baroque
portico.
Today, the city's most important craft involves more glittering objects, and
there are so many opportunities to learn more about nature's hardest material
and its impact on Antwerp. The Diamond Museum houses a stunning collection. The
current exhibition, Bling Bling - The Crown Jewels of Hip Hop, was put together
by local youth and tells how diamonds have become a part of hip hop. Next year,
Diamond Divas will feature diamond jewellery worn by Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth
Taylor and Sophia Loren, among others. Meanwhile, at Diamondland
you can see skilled polishers and cutters at work.
There are about 1,500 diamond companies and four diamond exchanges now within
a square kilometre area of the city centre, and the industry in Antwerp has an
annual turnover of US$39 billion. The diamond trade, traditionally associated
with the city's Jewish population, is now a multicultural industry. The Diamond
District is located close to the railway station (there are even several
jewellery stores within the station), and the surrounding streets are great for
window shopping.
But if your budget is more carrots than carats, there are other treats on
offer. Belgium is famous for its chocolate, and there are chocolatiers all over
Antwerp. For example, at Goosens
you'll find skilfully "cut" chocolate diamonds, "Antwerp
hands", hearts and even explosive chocolates made using carbon dioxide.
The fashion industry is another important facet of Antwerp. Many successful
designers have passed through the city's influential fashion academy, including
the likes of Tim Van Steenbergen and Bernhard Willhelm. You can find out more on
a visit to the MoMu fashion
museum and the Flanders Fashion Institute. Unsurprisingly, you'll never run
out of clothes shopping options in Antwerp. Walk around Nationalestraat and the
surrounding area, and you'll find a range of stores. For bargains, Labels Inc,
in Aalmoezenier, is the place to go for second hand designer clothes, while in
the historic centre of the city, around the Meir, you'll find department and
international chain stores.
 Diamond
polisher at work, Diamondland, Antwerp (© Diamondland)
If all that shopping has built up an appetite, there are plenty of choices.
Hoffy's is a charismatic Kosher restaurant in Lange Kievitstraat serving
delicious food (starters £5, mains £13). If you're looking for Michelin-star
quality, head for The Dome, a small, intimate French restaurant with a stunning
domed ceiling, located in the charming Zurenborg area of town (starters from
£11, mains from £19).
For a bird's eye view on contemporary urban lifestyle, and perhaps the best
views over the city, visit Lucy.
Set on the top floor of a tower block, Lucy hosts monthly exhibitions from
post-contemporary and street artists, while there are also DJs, album releases,
lectures, workshops, film screenings and more. You can also enjoy some great
cooking. For example a surprisingly tasty regional dish is Witloof - chicory
baked in a thick Emmental layer (about £8). But hurry, Lucy has only been given
the space until February 2008 when the office block is renovated.
Grote
Markt and the Stadhuis, Antwerp © Tourism Antwerp
And at the end of a busy day remember, you still have more than 500 varieties
of Belgian beer to sample. But with so much to see in Antwerp, you'll never have
time to drink them all.
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FURTHER INFORMATION:
VLM Airlines flies non-stop from London City Airport to Antwerp five times every
weekday, once on Saturday, twice every Sunday. Prices start from £25 per person
one-way plus taxes and charges. For information and reservations, call 0871 666
5050 or visit www.flyvlm.com
Antwerp has a wide range of accommodation, from
hostels through to luxury hotels. Guesthouses generally cost $30-$60 (£21-£43)
a more expensive guesthouse I can recommend is Antwerpen
Bed And Breakfast named de
gulden baers . More expensive hotels include the centrally placed
four-star Astrid Plaza, which has rooms for $129 (£92).
For further information about accommodation, attractions and more, contact
Tourism Flanders - Brussels, www.visitflanders.co.uk,
tel 020 7307 7738 (0800 9545242 for brochures).
If like me you like African
Art visit dealer David Norden in the old city near the Groenplaats, Sint
Katelijnevest 27.
NICK ELVIN, Friday 30th November 2007
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